Forget everything you knew about very fancy pizza. Chicago-based chef, philanthropist, and author of three cookbooks, including 2021's “Pizza for Everyone,” John Carruthers is all about tavern-style pizza. According to John, it’s a square of Chicago’s soul that is “utilitarian, shamelessly different, fought about at the block-to-block level, and misunderstood by bemused outsiders.” In short, it’s the best damn pizza in the neighbourhood, and he has plenty to say about its history and importance. 

Style-wise, tavern-style pizza has a cracker-thin dough rolled out (not tossed) and docked before baking in a moderately heated (260 °C to 280 °C/500 °F to 550 °F) deck oven. (John goes the extra mile when it comes to the dough: He sets aside 2 to 3 days for proofing before cooking, followed by a cold proof of 7 to 10 days. A long, cold fermentation develops the flavour and helps get that coveted crispness and ease of rolling.)

The sauce is then cooked and suffused with umami, herbs, and/or sweetness, depending on your neighbourhood place. Most importantly, it’s cut into squares. 

For Carruthers’ recipe, you’ll want to get out your food processor, roll the dough, cook the heck out of the sauce, and pile on the sausage. Soon enough, you’ll be one “ope!” from a Chicago passport and a shot of Malört.